How To Get Rid Of Mice Without Harming Cats

How To Get Rid Of Mice Without Harming Cats - How to Get Rid of Rats Without Harming the Environment

Why is Getting Rid of Mice a Priority?

You could be shocked to identify a mouse on your kitchen, but without doubt not think single mouse a great deal of threat. You may notice even one mouse in your abode, however, it is a good bet that you've got entire groups of mice—as part of your walls, as part of your attic, in hard-to-reach places with your garage, also in other hidden places. And also you do not need have already most of these resilient pests at home, spotting the particular one mouse shows that will most likely soon. Learing how to get rid of mice begins with one simple choice: do you want to do things the easy way or the hard way? Helping get rid of mice can be as simple as making one phone call to a pest control professional, or else it can seem like you're chasing invisible mice in walls. For those brave souls who want to face these disease-carrying rodents on your own, here's what you need to know about how to get rid of mice.

Being naturally nocturnal, voracious nibblers, and rapid reproducers (starting for the tender ages of 6 weeks) how does one do struggling with mice without turning to mainstream methods? Enter a great little idea called integrated pest management (IPM.) It will require some other work, dedication, and thought than other methods, but you can manage without needing toxic chemicals, that makes it far superior inside my opinion. IPM involves pest proofing your personal property by sealing up any potential entrances, keeping food well sealed and securely locked away, knowing your pests habits, likes/dislikes, and eliminating any water sources.

Combine an IPM program with a few of these DIY deterrents and repellents, as well as think of a successful comprehensive plan to stop mice naturally.

How Poison Works: Most rodenticides available are anti-coagulants. They essentially inhibit your bodys capacity clot blood, which ends up in the mouse hemorrhaging and bleeding to death internally. Warfarin, brodifacoum, diefenacoum, and flocoumafen. While each of these are nasty and toxic, flocoumafen may be so powerful that it's only legally certified for indoor use. Besides prohibiting blood coagulation, the poisons might most likely make the mice extremely thirsty. They then leave the house searching for water and die. On dollars ., plus the risk you pose to pets and kids, there exists secondary poisoning to consider. Many poisons are toxic to animals that would take in the mice, similar to birds of prey-or your pet or cat.

How Traps Work: Fairly self-explanatory, the two main traps that can be purchased are sticky traps and snap traps. Snap traps are triggered after the mouse costs the bait, and a solid spring mechanism snaps a wire down, smashing the rodents neck. I've, unfortunately, been witness a number of trap malfunctions-one particularly gruesome one involved the mouse pulling back to ensure that its neck didn't break, it's snout along with the front section of its face was crushed and caught around the trap. It was subsequently significantly alive afterwards. It could sound soft-hearted, but I can't stand the sight of a pest struggling as well as in pain.

Sticky traps are about as inhumane as they definitely get. The mouse runs onto it, sticks, it is terrified while its struggles to escape. It's going to either die slowly of dehydration or starvation. The traps can chisel fur and skin while they struggle, and rodents have attempted to chew through their unique limbs to get free.

1. Eliminate entry points.

Building mice out, or rodent-proofing your household, is an affordable way to forestall mice infestations from expanding or ever occurring in the best place. Defend the house from mice by eliminating points of entry and simple access. Could potentially be difficult because of mouse's ability to squeeze itself into even the smallest of openings (one-quarter inch and up). A superb rationale is if you're able to fit a pencil in a crack, hole or opening, a mouse can complete it.

Seal cracks in the foundation combined with openings from the walls, including where utility pipes and vents occur. Steel wool and caulking is effective here. Don't use plastic, rubber, wood or any other thing mice may easily gnaw through as sealants. Get weather stripping for door and window gaps and make sure the sweep on the door creates a seal resistant to the threshold within the next closed.

2. Use mouse traps.

A sensible way to help get rid of mice in the ongoing infestation is with mouse traps.The classic wooden snap traps will do just fine for light to moderate mouse populations, but do not forget that most people underestimate mice infestations. It's not unusual to lay one dozen traps for one mouse - or what you believe is only one mouse. Use plenty. Additionally it is recommended that you lay different styles of traps. Use bait traps, multiple-capture live traps and glue traps in conjunction with the wooden traps. This provides you an improved chance at catching all of the mice, since some might be keen to some types of traps and know to avoid them.

3. Choose the best bait for mouse traps.

You should utilize whatever food the mice are actually eating in your house for bait, or mouse-approved favorites for instance chocolate, peanut butter, bacon, oatmeal, dried fruit or hazelnut spread. As you prepare to set the baited trap, tie the bait into the trigger with fishing line or dental floss. This makes sure the mice get what's visiting for them without "making served by the cheese." You too can secure the bait accompanied by a hot glue gun. Replace with fresh bait every two days. If your food isn't working, you can attempt using nesting material just like cotton balls or feathers.

4. Proper placement of mouse traps is critical.

Put the traps perpendicular towards walls, with all the trigger section facing the baseboard. That is the mouse to operate right into the bait while it naturally scurries down the walls, as opposed to running covering the trap from a bad direction, triggering it prematurely. Mice don't travel greater than 10 or 20 feet from food sources and nesting areas (i.e., their territory), so put the traps anywhere apparently mice or signs of mice, for example rodent droppings or "rubbings" on baseboards and walls. Change trap locations every 2 days or so. Mice are naturally curious so they don't avoid traps like rats will.

5. Bait stations.

Bait stations (or bait packages) are sealed packets containing meal or pellets. They typically may be found in plastic, paper or cellophane wrapping, allowing the mice to simply gnaw through and reach the preserved, fresh bait. The mice feed on this subject bait and die. While useful in getting rid of mice, the service should be handled by trained pest management professionals to be sure the safety individuals, your son or daughter including your pets.

6. Good sanitation won't get rid of mice, but poor sanitation will attract them.

Mice can survive on just 3 to 4 grams of food every day, so some crumbs every now and then are typical they really need. Vacuum your floors and ensure that you wipe down counters, eliminating residue, crumbs and any entry to food sources. Store food in glass jars or airtight containers. Don't forget about securing your garbage. Mice have sharp incisor teeth to enable them to chew through nearly anything, even concrete if for example mood strikes them, so plastic bags 're no match for hungry rodents.

7. Tackle the mice in the house and out.

Remove debris around the house where mice can hide. Keep weeds for a minimum and destroy burrows and nesting areas when you find them. Lining your home's foundation which has a strip of heavy gravel is the best way to prevent nesting and burrowing. The less debris and clutter around your dwelling and property, the simpler it is always spot signs of rodent activity preventing mice dead in their tracks.

8. Cats vs Mice.

Many cats wish to hunt mice. Some dogs may even find yourself in about the fun. For those who have pets, they can be one way to catch a mouse without lifting a finger. Without pets, now may very well be fun to halt watching cat videos on the internet own one in tangible life. Many farms use farm or barn cats to master their mouse population. Certainly, some pets just cannot be bothered with mice - and in addition aided by the way many of us pamper their fur babies.

9. Aluminum Foil

My family laughed when my Dad laid out aluminum foil one particularly mouse infested year up at the cabin. He covered the entire countertop with the stuff-cereal boxes, granola bars, everything. It looked, quite frankly, ridiculous. But lo and behold, the next morning, not a thing had been touched. No mouse had crept over the foil. It was probably a combination of the smell, and the slippery and noisy surface (the phrase “quiet as a mouse” didn’t come from nowhere!)

If you know where the mice are breaking in, wad up some foil and firmly jam it in the hole. Have you ever bitten a piece of aluminum foil? It gives me goose bumps just thinking about the sensation. I don’t know if mice don’t like the taste or feel, or if it just strikes them as too unnatural to penetrate, but I’ve had great success with this simple way to keep the mice at bay. This is a good first step to try before moving up to the copper wire solution above.

Cover the surface where you’re finding mouse droppings with the foil. Of course you can’t cover your whole house, but if you’re finding them on the countertops, for example, cover those with the foil. Lay the foil at night right before bedtime, and fold up in the morning. You can re-use it, but I recommend against it, on the off-hand chance that a mouse did track its little mitts all over it!

10. Cloves

Cloves elicit memories of warm holidays and cozy nights by the fire for us, but for some mice, they find the smell distasteful and overwhelming. It seems slightly counterintuitive that a smell that reminds us of holiday baking would be so unappealing to a mouse, but the strong essential oil in cloves encourages is irritating to them. You can use whole cloves, or clove essential oil on cotton balls. I prefer the essential oil as it is more powerful than the latter.

You will need :
-Clove essential oil OR whole cloves
-Cotton balls

Apply in the same way as the peppermint oil. Put 20-30 drops onto a cotton ball and place strategically around the house. Be sure you don’t have any pets wandering around that would gulp it down. If you’re using whole cloves, wrap them in an old piece of cotton t shirt and use in place of the cotton balls.

11. Bring Out the Copper

Exclusion is a huge part of solving a mouse problem. High quality steel wool is a popular item used to block entrances that mice use to get in and out of your house, and it can work quite well. However, you usually need to use a caulking compound to ensure the mice don’t pull the steel wool out of the hole, and the steel will degrade and rust over time. Copper wool, or copper wire mesh, on the other hand, won’t rust or degrade, and is woven finely to make it that much harder to chew through or pull out. If you have a deep crack, you can tightly stuff several layers of the copper into it which is usually sufficient to hold it in. If you have a shallower space you need to fill, or particularly stubborn mice that find a way to yank it out, you may want to look at a chemical/toxin free caulk or sealant. I won’t go into detail on those products right now since that has enough information to be a post unto itself!

You will need :
-1 roll of copper wire mesh/copper steel

Roll up the copper into thin wads and stuff firmly into cracks/holes/any entrances being used by the mice. Use a stick to really jam it in there, and use as many layers as you can without making it loose or sloppy. After installing, you can also spray with a little bit of hot pepper spray for extra deterrent.

12. Dryer Sheets

While I point blank refuse to use dryer sheets in the dryer, I do find myself turning to them at times to help with mice. It’s the lesser of two evils when it comes to poison. I actually learned of this little trick at the barn where I keep my horses. Since my barn cat happens to be incredibly lazy, I learned from another horsey friend that mice hate the smell of dryer sheets. Sure enough, after placing 1-2 in my tack locker, I was no longer finding mouse droppings or (on really bad days) mice that had decided to crawl into my stuff to die.

You will need :
-Regular old dryer sheets

Lay out around problem areas. Refresh when the scent is extremely faded/gone (usually once a month or so.) It’s a good idea to weight down the corners of the sheets. On the offhand chance you forget to replace them, they can be used as nesting material for the mice once the odor wears off. They can also be moved quite easily. I personally like to use them to help plug up any entrances I find that the mice are breaking into.

13. Mouse Deterrent Spray

This is a special little concoction that that doesn’t involve manufactured chemicals or toxins-although I would recommend wearing goggles and gloves when you apply it! This is a spray made entirely from hot peppers. While we might like a little heat to our food, think about when you get hit with something too spicy. Your eyes start to burn, you’re in pain, and if the scoville units get high enough (the unit used to measure the heat of hot peppers) you can even kick the bucket.

Now imagine you’re a mouse, just a few inches off the floor, snuffling around and minding your own business (kind of) when you stumble across a patch of burning hot “pepper spray.” With your eyes and nose so close to the ground, you’ll be extremely uncomfortable and irritated and not exactly excited to continue on with your journey. You’ll probably turn back to find another, less spicy, place to invade.

This spray uses habanero peppers, which have a scoville rating of 100,000-350,000 units, and cayenne peppers, which rate at 30,000-50,000 units. Compare this to the 1,000-4,000 units of a jalapeno, and it’s easy to see why this is so repugnant to rodents.

You will need :
-1/2 cup chopped habaneros
-2 tablespoons hot pepper flakes
-16 cups (1 gallon) of fresh water
-Two 2 gallon buckets
-A gallon jug and a spray bottle
-A large pot

Wear gloves and goggles when making and applying this powerful mixture. A surgical mask isn’t a bad idea either, as it can cause some respiratory irritation in some individuals.

In a large pot, bring water to a boil. Put peppers and flakes in a food processor and blend until they are a little more roughly chopped up. You can do this by hand, but I find it less irritating to the eyes to use the food processor. Put the pepper blend into a 2 gallon bucket, and then pour the boiling water over them. Cover the mixture and allow it to sit for 24 hours. Using cheesecloth, strain out the pepper bits by pouring the mixture into another 2 gallon bucket. Fill your spray bottle and spritz around entrances and affected areas. A little goes a long way! Don’t use this on carpets as it may discolor the surface. I like to apply around the outside perimeter of my house, but if you want to apply it indoors, after a day or two wipe the old spray up with some water and reapply. Always test a small area first to make sure it doesn’t affect the color.

The mixture, covered, keeps for months out of direct sunlight, so simply refill your bottle when needed.

14. Peppermint Essential Oil

Mice, while nowhere near as impressive as say, dogs, still have a fairly acute sense of smell that beats our own. So while we find the smell of peppermint refreshing, tangy, and pleasant, mice find it overwhelming and offensive. This isn’t the best remedy to deter mice, but it makes a nice compliment to a solid IPM program.

You will need…
-cotton balls
-peppermint essential oil

Add 20-30 drops of peppermint essential oil to each cotton ball and lay strategically around your home. Refresh every week or so, or whenever you notice the smell is fading. Feel free to experiment with other essential oils/oil blends in addition to peppermint.

15. Let Nature Do Its Thing

While dogs, bless their loyal hearts, are man's best friend and valuable in countless ways, they less difficult farther far from their ancestors with regard to behavior than cats are. You will discover kinds of dogs that hunt happily, of course, but you're going to be challenged if we have to see a cat it doesn't enjoy a refined “killer instinct” so to speak. When you'd like to naturally do away with mice, the cat can be your best friend. If you have a pest problem, and there is an means to use a cat, go for it! Keep in mind that, the kitty will in addition join the family-not just something you select for one mouse problem. There's always the choice you opt for the one which is not a good mouser, wherein case, you've just gained another wonderful relative.

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